Thursday, December 25, 2008

Working for the Man

Some of you may be wondering just exactly what I do as a Small Enterprise Development Volunteer here in Madagascar. For a while, I was wondering the same thing. I'm happy to say that I (finally) have a few projects rolling. Here's what's going on in my neck of the woods:

-Trainings! I've been traveling to villages within my commune and conducting basic budgeting and money management trainings. I usually throw in a little bit about business plans to plant the seed for those who are interested in starting new businesses.
Here is a picture of the turnout for one of my trainings, although I'm pretty sure that some people were just there to check out the vazaha (foreigner).

-Business club! I have a business club with local middle school orphan girls. These girls are more likely to drop out of school around the age of 15 or 16 because they simply can't afford to go to school anymore. We meet every Wednesday and learn the basics of business and finance. The girls will learn about and subsequently complete a business plan and with money that I have received from the U.S.Embassy I will provide them with the start-up funds for their own businesses. With the money they earn from conducting their business (like selling fried dough, for example) over their summer vacations and the skills they learned from the club, they will be able to buy the school supplies necessary and pay the fees for the coming school year.
These are the students in my business club.



-Village Savings & Loan! I have started a Village Savings & Loan program with the wives of the gendarmes (read: police) in my town. Though we are still in the formation stage, once the group is up and running the women will save money monthly. It is a great and easy way to save, especially since there is no bank in my town. Once the funds have built up over time, the women will be able to take out small loans to finance different projects. This is one of the programs that I'm most passionate about because it is simple yet so very empowering.

Those are my main projects although, as a secondary project, I teach English to teachers every Sunday afternoon. I am also working on helping a nearby village to begin raising pigs, an excellent source of food as well as income, and a welders group and a bicycle repairman to expand their businesses. So stay tuned!

Gaga over Vazaha

I recently spent some time in the Antananarivo airport here in Madagascar on my way to Cape Town, South Africa. While sitting in the airport cafe, I found myself eavesdropping on a family seated at the table next to me. The conversation itself was dull but they were speaking English. I found myself rather embarrassed at how intrigued and awestruck I was. It wasn't until that moment that I realized just how living in the countrysides of Madagascar has affected me. There were things that I had been conscious of previously, such as trying not to shovel food into my mouth with my spoon (the Malagasy utensil of choice) and saying very direct (and perhaps rude) things. Now, after weeks of speaking strictly Malagasy at a time, I find myself drawn to anyone speaking English. Chances are that I probably don't know them nor will I jump into the conversation, it's just nice to listen and actually understand the words being spoken, jokes and all. And if per chance, the English speakers are American, then it's like hitting the jackpot! I had hoped that my consciousness of these behaviors would help me to avoid falling victim to them. I now have a new one to add to the list, which should help me from becoming gaga the next time that I see a vazaha (foreigner)...

In Love...


I am in love. With Cape Town, South Africa. Earlier this month I met my dear friend Steph there for a wedding. (Steph, who is currently living in London, is friends with a lovely South African couple there, Shaun & Lynn. She was invited to return home with them for their wedding and since I'm relatively close, geographically speaking, I accompanied her as her date.) Upon arrival Lynn, Shaun and Steph took me to McDonalds knowing that no such place exists here in Madagascar. (Funny side note: the Happy Meal toys were for the movie Madagascar 2: Escape to Africa.) And so began my love affair with Cape Town.

Everything during my week there took my breath away. The landscape, the food, the people...Imagine beaches with clear blue waters with a backdrop of towering rocky mountains. I was lucky enough to experience traditional South African braai, twice! Braai is a slow roasting/grilling of meat similar to an American barbeque. I ate enough chicken, ribs, and sausage to last me the entire month of December, partly because I don't cook meat in Madagascar (so I had to take advantage) and partly due to the absolute deliciousness. Actually, it became a game of sorts: feed the poor girl who has been living off of rice for the past 10 months. The seafood, chocolate, wine and Rooiboos tea were the most memorable. Oh and toast. I know that last one sounds rather odd but sliced bread and toasters are novelties on this island. In Madagascar I have been eating mainly for sustenance, as opposed to taste, so I would like to thank everyone who reintroduced me to delicious food while I was in Cape Town.

Amongst the toursity spots we saw, Cape Point and Table Mountain National Park were perhaps my favorite. There lies the Cape of Good Hope, as well as the point where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. It was also interesting to see the penguins who reside on the beach in Simonstown and the baboons hanging out on the side of the road. I now agree with those who say that Cape Town is one of the most beautiful places on earth.
Steph and I at the lighthouse at Table Mountain National Park.
Cape Point, where the two oceans meet.
Baboons hanging out on the side of the road.

Perhaps the most memorable part of my trip was the people that I had the opportunity to meet. The beautiful bride, Lynn, and the gracious groom, Shaun, were kind enough to open their homes, act as tour guides (even amongst final wedding preparations!), and allow me to partake in their special day. They are truly amazing people and make a wonderful couple. I wish them the very best in their new life as husband and wife. I owe the world to Tony, Joan & Michelle Blackburn for their unbelievable hospitality. My trip simply wouldn't have been the same without them. It was interesting to talk to them about their views on development, especially after living and working in Madagascar for nearly a year now. I would also like to thank the Cloete family-to the Cloete boys for their charming company and to Mr. Cloete for arranging a place for me to stay in Johannesburg so I didn't have to sleep in the airport on my way back. On a sad note, I would like to send my condolences to the Blackburn family. Mr. Blackburn passed away last week, just days after his son's wedding. He was a great man who knew how to make a mean cup of Rooibos tea and who you could always count on for a laugh. I feel priveleged to have met him. My thoughts and prayers are with the Blackburns.

Overall my trip was amazing. One might not consider mainland Africa as a getaway but it was all that and more for me. In fact, if things don't work out here in Madagascar, I think I'll run away to Cape Town...

A visit to the Rhodes Memorial.

Photo-op during our drive through the mountains.

Shaun & Lynn cutting the cake.

Thursday, November 6, 2008

The U.S. Election...from Madagascar

On November 4th, 2008, I was lucky enough to be in Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar, for the U.S. presidential election. The U.S. Ambassador to Madagascar invited the Peace Corps Volunteers that were in town, along with many other Americans and Malagasy, to his house to watch the election results via satellite t.v. His palatial estate was decked out with any and all election memorabilia you could think of, including life size cut-outs of both presidential candidates.

There was also a nice breakfast, which us poor PCVs appreciated. The event started at 5 a.m., since Madagascar is 8 hours ahead of Eastern Time in the States. We learned that Barrack Obama won enough votes to become the president elect of the United States of America around 7 a.m. I found McCain's concession speech to be well-spoken and handled with grace and Obama's to be downright moving. Many of the Peace Corps Volunteers were in tears!



Although I sometimes find myself wishing that I could be in the States right now to witness these exciting times, I have found experiencing the presidential election from Madagascar to be memorable as well. Many of the Malagasy people were surprisingly in the know about the election. I say surprisingly because the only news I can get is BBC, sporadically, on my shortwave radio. After the results came in, there were as many Malagasy cheering as there were Americans. Not only is Obama bringing hope to Americans, he is bringing hope to the most remote corners of the world.

Monday, October 27, 2008

English Speaker Extraordinaire

When you grow up having something your whole life, you often don't realize what you've got. Things like refrigerators, cars, even indoor heating. In my countryside town in Madagascar, those things are extravagant luxuries. (Although indoor heating only exists in the form of adding more blankets in this country.) If you have a refrigerator and the generator needed to run it for a few hours a day, or a car and the money to buy gas, then you have something that everyone else strives for. (That being said, I have learned that many things that say "refrigerate after opening" can actually be eaten without being refrigerated and won't make you sick.) While some Malagasy people yearn for a car and others for a generator, there is one thing that everyone wants: the ability to speak English.

Even after gaining independence from France in 1960, the Malagasy have continued to learn the French language. Not until recently (around 2006) was English made a national language. The face that there aren't many English speaking tourists or other arenas to practice their English speaking skills has had no effect on their desire to learn the English language. So in my town, rather than being known as the Peace Corps Volunteer or the foreigner that can teach us about business, I am known as the English speaker extraordinaire. I've had at least 3 times as many requests for English lessons as I have had for anything business related. Part of my role as English speaker extraordinaire is being a translator and foreign money connoisseur. People bring me manuals, beauty products, anything printed in English really, and ask me to tell them what it means in Malagasy. These are often not American items, but rather, things made in China with directions in both Chinese and English. So I try my best to explain that you must leave the conditioner in for 3 minutes, rinse and repeat if necessary. Then there is the phenomenon of foreign money. I call it a phenomenon because I'm really not sure where it comes from, but I've seen European cents, French francs, even Korean won. Just yesterday a woman brought me what she believed to be "vingt dollars"-a twenty dollar bill. It was a twenty dollar bill alright, with the words "play money" printed across the front. I realize that many people show me the foreign currency in hopes that I will buy it from them, giving them the Malagasy equivalent, something that they can actually use. Sadly, such is often not the case. While I have no need for francs or play money, I did purchase the won just because it makes for an interesting story. I envision someone asking me "Hey, where'd you get that Korean money?" to which I'd reply "Oh, you know, in Madagascar."

Blankie

When I was born, my parents had a special blanket for me. While I wasn't one of the kids that carried it everywhere with me, I did sleep with it every night. That blanket made me feel safe and when my room was dark and I was alone for the night, it helped me fall asleep. I have found a new blankie here in Madagascar-my mesquito net. Peace Corps issues each Volunteer a mesquito net to help prevent malaria. I never would have imagined that it would bring me so much comfort. When I'm lying in my bed at night, in a room where a candle provides the only light, ten thousand miles away from home, I feel safe under the mesquito net. Sure, there may be huge cockroaches, rats, and malaria mesquitos roaming around but for some reason I feel confident that this thin layer of mesh will keep me out of harms way. I also often smile when I think about it because I remember when my younger sister, Kady, used to have one hanging above her bed for decoration. Back then I never would have imagined that one day I would be using one for its intended purpose. But then again I never really thought I'd be living in Africa either. It's funny the paths we choose to take and where we end up but I'm glad that my path has led me to Madagascar.

Monday, September 22, 2008

A Little Malagasy Culture

What’s in a name?
The names of towns and villages in Madagascar all have meanings associated with them. Some of them are obvious, like “lots of milk” (Beronono) in a region where there are many cows and “good sun” (Tsaramasoandro) in a place where it is hot and sunny all year round. My town is literally “to make replacement,” although I’m not sure what they were (or are?) aiming at replacing. One thing is for sure, I’m glad that I don’t live in Bevoalavo (“many rats”) or Arivomamo (“a thousand drunks”)!

How much?
The Malagasy people have a backwards number system/way of counting. Literally. Sure the French made counting harder than need be (90 = four 20s + 10) but at least the numbers are spoken from left to right. The Malagasy, on the other hand, say their numbers backwards. Fifty three is spoken as three fifty. Sounds difficult huh? Just imagine the larger numbers! 14,780? You must say: eighty and seven hundred and four thousand and one ten thousand. Although I have gotten better at mastering the numbers, I must admit that my first few trips to the market ended with me giving the vendor more than enough money and just waiting for the change, simply to avoid the confusion that is known as the Malagasy number system.

Carbs? Yes please!
Rice is the staple food in Madagascar. It is consumed three times a day, with various side dishes such as bean or vegetables. Rice served with spaghetti was not an uncommon meal served by my host family during training. And to truly express their love of carbs, cassava or manioc is regularly eaten as a snack between meals. While I realize that these foods are consumed to simply fill the stomach and help one feel full, I would like to try and teach about the importance of a balanced meal as a secondary project. Meat is not an option for many families because of the price but there are other options available that will also provide more nutrients.

There is plenty of meat, but unfortunately not plenty of money.

Where there is no doctor
Here is some common Malagasy medical advice, just in case any of you are sick in the near future:
-don’t eat cucumbers when you’re sick (because they’re cold)
-don’t eat peanuts if you have a cough
-eat carrots after you throw up
-drink tea with lots of sugar when you have a sore throat
-rub crushed chalk on the outside of your ear when you have an ear infection
Some of these should be taken with a grain of salt given the source (an 11-year-old child in some cases) but might provide some relief!

Sasa, the China Face

In Madagascar, I am known as Sasa, which also happens to be a form of the Malagasy verb “to wash” and, when shouted, sounds very much like vazaha (which means foreigner). This is because most Malagasy people, much like some young American children, cannot pronounce the “sh” sound. I actually somewhat prefer Sasa to the other name that I am often called: China Face (tarehy chinois). As many of you know, I am half Korean (my mom came to the U.S. from Seoul for college) and half American (my dad’s heritage is English and Irish). Despite having lived in the U.S. for the entirety of my life, and even referring to myself as a “twinkie” (yellow on the outside, white on the inside), the Malagasy people cannot seem to see past my Asian features. A typical conversation, especially in rural Madagascar, goes a little something like this:

random Malagasy: “Are you Chinese?”
me: “No, I’m American.”
random Malagasy: “So you speak Chinese?”

It is somewhat frustrating to be denied your identity from the start. Also frustrating is the fact that I’m afraid to do kickboxing to stay in shape (one of my favorite workouts back home), fearing that it will be mistaken for kung fu and then no one will ever believe that I’m American. All kidding aside, not looking like a “typical” American has provided me with great opportunities to explain what America is like to people here in Madagascar. Many people are very surprised to learn that there are many different types of people in America and eager to learn more. And I am more than willing to share.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Namanako = My Friends

Friends are somewhat hard to come by in a new country, especially if you are not yet fluent in the language. I have very few girlfriends that are my age because most of the young women are married and busy taking care of their house and children. While I do have adult friends in my town, I have taken quite a liking to the children. At first I found it a little annoying to have children peeking through my fence all day, everyday. I felt like I was on some sort of reality tv show, where people found it interesting to watch me doing trivial things, such as cooking or washing my clothes. One day I decided to invite the kids into my home, figuring that they would quickly become disinterested once they saw firsthand that I was doing something like cooking Malagasy food just like their families do. And while they have not yet lost interest in my seemingly mundane daily activities, I have grown to enjoy their company. This might be due in part to the face that I possess the same vocabulary as they do (I'm still working on my Malagasy language skills). The kids keep me up-to-date on what's happening in town, teach me the new dance moves, and are just generally entertaining. The fact that I give them candy and let them look at my magazines is an enticing factor for them as well I'm sure. Here is a picture my neighbor boy, Noti, and myself enjoying a Rolling Stones magazine:



But they really have become good friends of mine. One girl, Tahina, even brought me homemade peanut brittle for my birthday! It is interesting and fun to share things about America, and it just so happens to be one of the goals of Peace Corps. I had some of my little friends make this movie, just for you all:



In case you couldn't understand their English (they're working on it), they are saying "Hello everybody in the United States." And if anyone is inspired by the video and would like to send a package with candy and/or coloring books/utensils, I'm sure the kids would say "misaotra betsaka!" the equivalent of "thank you so much" in English. If you do plan on sending candy, something like M&Ms or Skittles would probably be best. I shared some Nerds that a friend sent and you can just imagine how many ended up on the floor of my house instead of in their mouths. Needless to say, the Nerds were kept to myself after that!

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Tropical Island What?


I live on this "tropical" island yet prior to last week I hadn't even caught a glimpse the ocean. All that changed when I took my first vacation to the lovely island off the east coast of Madagascar known as St.Marie. I'm not even a good photographer and this picture came out postcard perfect.

After the training that marked our 3 month mark at site earlier this month, a group of the Environment-SED '08-'10 group decided to take a little vacay. Since Peace Corps gives us a $24 USD "vacation allowance" monthly, flying, though must faster, wasn't an option. Instead we taxi-broussed (think minibus) about 12 hours from Antananarivo to Soanierana-Ivongo, where we took a boat across to Ile St. Marie. The taxi-brousse wasn't so bad, since there were enough of us to rent the whole thing out and Madagascar doesn't have an option container law, but the boat was a different story. Imagine a wooden boat with about 50 people stuffed in it, being powered by a motor that probably belongs on a moped. It was a sad sight. But we made it safely and now look back at the wonderful boat ride and laugh. (I think.)



Ile St. Marie is a tropical paradise. Even though it is whale season right now (humpback whales swim through the channel between Madagascar and St. Marie from June to September, an amazing sight) the beaches were deserted and made us feel like we had the whole island to ourselves. We biked north to see waterfalls, hiked south to the most perfect beaches, and spent the time in between drinking punch coco (a delicious rum and coconut concoction) and enjoying fresh seafood. We even got to see the only pirate cemetary in the world! It was an amazing time with amazing people.



So now it is back to the plateau, re-energized and ready to go!

Friday, July 11, 2008

Life in Madagascar

Things I no longer find unusual:
-drinking burnt rice water (hey, it’s sanitary)
-the fact that it takes someone all day to cook 3 meals and do the dishes
-people peeing anywhere and everywhere
-people carrying things on their heads, from buckets of water to 50 kilos of rice
-kids as young as 4 or 5 fetching water
-latrines and bucket showers
-sweeping the dirt
-no shoes, no teeth, no problem

Things that I still find unusual (and probably always will):
-people staring at me doing the simplest things, like writing this
-everyone assuming that I speak French since I’m white
-people speaking Malagasy and French in the same sentence
-animals so skinny you can see their ribs (this goes for all animals but especially dogs and cows)
-the fact that every epicerie (store in English) sells the same things (SED to the rescue!)
-8 year old boys in charge of herds of cows
-the fascination with learning to speak English
-the sound pigs make when forced to do something ( aka the most awful sound in the whole world)

Just a little insight to the typical sights, sounds, and smells in this place I now call home! Who wants to visit?!?

Home Sweet Home

Here is a video of my lovely home! It is a very nice (cement!) house. I have 3 rooms and a nice bamboo fence. The front door leads into my office which leads into my bedroom which leads into the kitchen. From the kitchen you can access my shower stall and latrine. The other half of my house is a “grande salle” (big room) which the mayor’s office uses for something, although I'm not sure what exactly. My house is right behind the mayor’s office. And although there aren’t many neighbors close by I feel safe, especially because there is a night guard at the mayor’s office. So I am working on getting settled in slowly but surely.



I live in a nice, rural town. I cannot disclose the name of my town due to Peace Corps rules, sorry! (Something about terrorists, although I don't think Madagascar is a hotbed for them.) Since it is often described as having "a lot of dirt, a lot" I will refer to it as the Dust Bowl. The dirt is actually more like a red clay dust. Anyways, here is some background info: There are fokontanys in Madagascar, villages in English, that are governed by the commune. There are 17 fokontanys in the commune "Dust Bowl" and I live in the commune head, with about 7,000 people. So the structure is like this: fokontany --> commune --> district --> region --> province. One might think that a town of this size might have electricity but such is not the case. I fetch water everyday from a pump that isn’t too far and cook and read by candlelight at night. It’s really not as bad as it sounds. I have established a daily routine which has helped with the transition/settling in. A good part of my day is spent doing things around the house, like fetching water, preparing meals, and sweeping to keep all the critters away. The rest of my day is spent walking around, talking to people, getting to know my community and trying to integrate. Sometimes I go to meetings, like with the local women’s association, or attend programs, like one last week about preventing tuberculosis. Things are finally rolling with a couple projects, which I give details about once things are a little more solid. In the words of my mother, quoting a very well-known song, "it's a slow ride, take it easy." Although nearly 7 months have passed, I still have 20 left to work and accomplish (hopefully) many things.

Need a haircut? The barbershop is open every Wednesday, which is also market day.

My town is home to the second largest cow market in the region. Moo.

A little insight to Peace Corps Madagascar

Peace Corps does many things in many countries (around 65 I think) but I wanted to give you guys a little insight on Peace Corps Madagascar. There are 4 sectors here: Education, Environment, Health and the brand new Small Enterprise Development aka SED. So what exactly will I be doing as a SED volunteer in rural Madagascar? Good question! Since I have only been at site for a short time, I’m not exactly sure yet. But the following is from the Peace Corps Madagascar SED project plan. Perhaps it will give you a better idea…

SED areas of focus:
1. business creation and development for individuals and groups
2. marketing and access to resources
3. ecotourism

-->Act as catalysts for entrepreneurial activity by supporting growth and development of micro and small enterprises.
-->Education of financial planning, ecotourism and business opportunities and start ups is desperately needed. Current groups have difficulty finding appropriate markets and are not sufficiently patient to develop systems to develop quality products. People do not trust banks and are handicapped by poor money management skills.

The focus of my first three months at site is conducting a community study to determine the needs of the people in my town and subsequent opportunities. After a 4 day training in August, I will be starting projects. At this moment I’m not sure exactly what those projects will be. The front-runners are the women's association who make jam and are also learning how to sew, as well as local storeowners who are interested in learning about managing money. I might throw an English club in there somewhere too, as a secondary project. Stay tuned!

That's PCV Sasha Elliott to you

I would first like to apologize for the ridiculous delay in postings. The internet here in Madagascar is slow (if it is functioning at all), to say the least. I guess that comes with the territory of living in a third world country huh?

So I am no longer a trainee, but as of April 29, 2008 I became a real, live Peace Corps Volunteer. Our swearing in ceremony was at the Tsimbazaza Park in the capital city of Antananarivo. Here is a picture of the first ever Small Enterprise Development Volunteers in Madagascar (and our trainers) at the swearing-in ceremony:
After the ceremony we had lunch at the Ambassador's amazing, palatial estate. It was a good time, full of pizza and cookies, but at the same time somewhat odd since we would all soon be leaving for the countrysides of Madagascar.

I moved to my site, a lovely little town a few hours west of Tana, on May 2nd. There were 2 other PCVs that helped me move in. The day they left, I felt as though my parents were dropping me off at summer camp, only this time for 2 years instead of the typical 2 weeks. After some time at site though I have become adjusted to life on my own. There are some amazing people in my town that have been so helpful in the first few months.

It is hard to believe that nearly 5 months has passed since I left home. A new group of trainees (education sector) has already arrived! So we are no longer the newbies. It seems like just yesterday I was scouring blogs to try and figure out what my future life in Madagascar would be like and more importantly, what (and how) to pack. So I wanted to give any future Madagascar PCVs a little advice:

-You are allowed 2 bags and a carry-on. I would recommend your 2 bags be a duffel bag or suitcase and a big backpack. (I think I have The NorthFace BackCountry 70.) Your carry on can be a daypack. Make sure your daypack is big enough to fit enough stuff for a 3-5 day trip. After going through the process (and also seeing what luggage other people in my training stage brought, I think that this is the best way to go.)

-Contrary to popular belief, it is not hot in Madagascar all the time, at least not everywhere. Training sites (and subsequent trainings) are usually on the plateau, close to Tana, and it is cold! I would recommend bringing a comfy jacket and probably a sweatshirt if you have room. (I have The NorthFace Warp jacket and wear it all the time! It was one of the best things that I brought.)

-Don't necessarily buy all the things on the Peace Corps packing list. There are many things that you can buy here that will just take up valuable space in your luggage. For instance, you can buy sheets and towels here. Don't bother bringing them. Also, girls, if you don't wear slips in the States, you won't wear them here either. I bought one (it was on the list) and have yet to wear it. I am glad that I brought some Tupperware and Ziploc bags, as well as a good set of knives! Many things can be purchased in Tana, but they are often expensive and not all Volunteers have easy access to the capital city.

-Peace Corps stresses "business casual" clothes but make sure that is not all you bring. It is definitely important to have a few nice outfits but it is also important to have more casual clothes, and ones that you don't mind if they don't get dirty (especially if you are in the Environment sector). I wish that I would have brought a few more things like what I would wear out with friends in the States. Just because you are in Madagascar doesn't mean that everyone dresses down all the time!

-I don't have too much advice about whether or not to bring a laptop. I am having mine sent, but I also bank in Tana, where there is internet access. Some of you may bring a computer and never be able to use it. But supposedly the Peace Corps office here in Tana is getting wireless so it might be worth it, even if it is just for the times when you are in Tana!

-And everyone seems to bring their iPod, Chacos, headlamp, and more than just the 3 outfits Peace Corps suggested.

I hope that helps somewhat! Life in Madagascar so far has been exciting, frustrating, crazy, and fun. And that was just the first few months!

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Peace Corps Bootcamp

Greetings from Madagascar!

I have been in Peace Corps bootcamp for the past 3 weeks. I am going to give you guys a typical day in my life right now.

6 am Wake up to a rooster. Clean my bedroom floor with half of a coconut. Fetch some water and take a bucket "shower." Have some yummy rice and ground peanuts for breakfast.

7:30 am Lots of Peace Corps training, everything from medical to safety to business tech sessions to language.

noon Lunch with my host family. More rice and lots of cucumbers, carrots, and bananas, but not all together.

1:30 to 6ish More training.

7 pm Dinner with my host family, who don't speak English. I try to speak Malagasy and they find it very amusing.

8 pm I'm banished to my room, where I write or study by candlelight.

So no running water or electricity, and rice 3 times a day but I'm loving it! Madagascar is awesome. The business development program is amazing too, although intense. One day we had Malagasy language class for 4 hours then an hour and a half meeting completely in French! Intense fo sho. There is so much more that I will fill you guys in on, so please stay tuned!

Miss you all dearly! Oh and write me some letters already!

Thursday, February 21, 2008

En Route

So I'm in Johannesburg, South Africa for the night and will be leaving for (and arriving in) Madagascar tomorrow! (It is 8 hours ahead here by the way.) When we arrive in country, we'll take a 2 and a half hour "taxi" ride to our training site, which is sans electricity and running water.

As most of you know, I was in Washington, D.C. for a few days for a little training/orientation, known to the Peace Corps as "staging." I must say that I was relieved once I met the others. There are 32 of us, 20 girls and 12 guys, that includes 3 married couples. There are only 4 others in the Small Enterprise Development (business) program though, the others are all Environmental Education and Agroforestry volunteers. There is even another girl from Indiana (Indianapolis)! So we've all gotten along pretty well thus far...

The 16 hour plane ride wasn't too bad, maybe because I slept for about half of it? They also had some pretty good movies-I watched Atonement and Michael Clayton. The plane itself was pretty nice too and there was lots of room! I lucked out though and had 2 seats to myself. The flight tomorrow from South Africa to Madagascar is about 3 and a half hours. They say we won't have any communication with anyone for the first few weeks so it might be a while before you all hear from me again but please stay tuned! I'm very excited!! I miss you all already and wanted to say thanks to my wonderful Pinnacle family for the surprise going away party last Saturday morning! It was so nice to see you all, even if it was right after spinning and I was sweaty! Now it's time to enjoy one last hot shower and a good nights sleep in a comfy bed...

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

This is For Real...

So I know that have no excuse for not posting sooner, since I have wi-fi and am currently unemployed (which I am kind of liking by the way). I just don't find my life in South Bend super interesting which is why I put it off. I thought about making a list of things that I will miss while I'm gone (cliche I know) but that list was simply too long. Then I decided to make a list of things that I won't miss but the only thing that came to mind was snow. So I ditched the idea altogether and decided that I will make a list of things I miss once I've been in Madagascar for long enough to start missing things. Which might not be too long, but be on the lookout!

So I had my first (minor) freakout two weeks ago. I received my staging kit in the mail from the Peace Corps. Staging is a 2 day event in Washington D.C. where I have some training and get to know the group of future volunteers that I will be traveling to and living in Madagascar with. There are 31 people (besides me) in my group. (Side note: Of the 32, twenty are females and twelve are males. There are even a few married couples.) The next step was to call the travel agency they use and arrange a flight to D.C. The freakout came when I got my email confirmation with my flight itinerary. For the past 3 months (since mid-November when I received my invitation) I have been talking about my upcoming adventure but it honestly didn't really set in until I had an actual plane ticket. I am going to give you guys the inside scoop (I know you are all excited!) on how one goes about actually getting to Madagascar. Here is my international flight itinerary:

20 Feb 08 - Wednesday
Leave Washington Dulles Airport 5:20 pm
21 Feb 08 - Thursday
Arrive Johannesburg, South Africa 3:45 pm non-stop 15hrs25min
22 Feb 08 - Friday
Leave Johannesburg, South Africa 9:35 am
Arrive Antananarivo, Madagascar 2:05 pm non-stop 3hrs30min

Not too bad-I hope they have good movies on the plane though! I am leaving South Bend before that though, on Monday the 18th. I have a flight departing bright and early at 7 am that will take me to D.C. via Cincinnati.

For anyone that might be interested in what one might pack when planning on living on a different continent for 27 months (or future PCVs), here are a few things from the packing list provided by the Peace Corps (compiled by current PCVs). There is also an 80 lb weight limit...

General Clothing
• Lightweight all-weather jacket
• Hooded sweatshirt or fleece
• Knit hat and gloves
• Swimsuit (PCVs recommend a bathing suit sufficiently stylish for vacations possibly spent at a resort on the island)
• Bandannas or handkerchiefs
• Baseball cap or straw hat for sun protection
• Good-quality lightweight raincoat and heavy-duty poncho
• Slacks and shirts or blouses (some sleeveless)
• Shorts and other clothes for lounging around (e.g., drawstring pajama pants or doctor’s scrubs).
• For women, dresses or skirts (below the knee for teachers, with no slits above the knee and not tight-fitting), including a dressy outfit
• Plenty of underwear, bras (including a sports bra), and socks
• Belt
• Money belt
• An outfit you could wear out for social evenings when with other PCVs
Note: The three ideal characteristics of clothing in Madagascar are dark colors, many pockets, and the ability to withstand rain and mud splatters (i.e., quick drying and breathable). In general, one should dress conservatively. It does get cold, so bring some warm clothes. Do not bring a lot of clothes, just three or four outfits for staging and the beginning of training; you can buy just about anything in local markets.

Shoes
• Sandals such as Tevas or Chacos
• Sneakers and/or hiking boots (at least two pairs of sneakers)
• Dress shoes for special occasions

Miscellaneous
• Sturdy water bottle (e.g., Nalgene)
• Leatherman or Swiss army knife
• Compact sleeping bag for cold weather (40 degree bag is sufficent)
• Indiglo watch
• Bungee cords or backpack straps
• Flashlight or headlamp with extra bulbs (Petzl makes a good headlamp)
• Shortwave radio
• Solar-powered rechargeable batteries with recharger
• Duct tape
• Scissors
• Good envelopes

Lastly, I would like to give a special thanks to Matt Aurenz and Faiz Khoja, financial planners extraordinaire, for helping me come up with a title for my blog. While seemingly simple, there is more to "Where in the World is Sasha Elliott?" than meets the eye. Not only is it fitting for my upcoming adventure, but it is also a tribute to the old, yet awesome, show "Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego?" For anyone who has ever seen the show, there is a part where the contestant (aka the gumshoe) runs around a huge map to find a location. The way Matt, Faiz, and I remember it, that location was always Madagascar. Second place goes to my lovely little sister, Kady Elliott, for the title "Girl Gone Wild." While definitely humorous, I thought that it might not exactly bring the right image to mind. So stay tuned to keep updated with my Peace Corps journey. Oh and feel free to start writing me letters :)

Thursday, January 10, 2008

T - 40 days

So I'm not a big blogger (this is my first one) but in roughly 40 days I will begin my Peace Corps adventure. I thought that this would be a good way to keep everyone updated. So here goes...

So here are some of the most common questions that I have been asked in the recent months since accepting my invitation. (Way better than just reading my random thoughts right??)

Why Peace Corps?
I strongly feel that if I have something that I can share, and the Peace Corps agrees and deems me suitable and competent, then why wouldn't I? Twenty seven months seems like a long commitment, but I will (only) be 25 when I return in May of 2010 and will still have plenty of time to go to grad school, move to Chicago or NYC, find a job that I am passionate about. You know, all that good stuff.

What are you going to eat? Bugs?
From what I've read, bugs are not in the typical diet, but you never know. I do know that I will be eating lots and lots of rice (like 3 times a day) and veggies. Good thing I'm (half) Asian!

Did you join the Peace Corps because you hate your job/current situation?
I think I deserve a little more credit than that. If I really despised my job, I would just find a new one, not move to Africa! What most people don't know is that I applied for the Peace Corps in January of 2007, when I was still happily in a relationship and before I became a peon at Ameriprise.

How do your parents feel about your decision?
My parents are actually quite supportive. I can't imagine how they felt when their eldest daughter expressed her interest in moving to Africa. My mom was initially against the idea, but as the months passed both she and my dad have come to realize that this will be an amazing, life-changing experience. We all agree that I just can't pass this opportunity up!

Do you get to come home at all?
You accumulate 2 vacation days a month as a PCV (Peace Corps Volunteer). So I will have roughly 48 vacation days to use. I could use the time to come home, but I would have to buy the plane ticket myself. If there is an important event (weddings is what comes to mind) I will definitely consider coming back. I do want to use my vacation time to travel around other parts of Madagascar/Africa as well. And visitors are always welcome!

Do you get paid?
Technically, yes. While you are a volunteer, you get enough money to "live like the locals," which comes out to about $130 a month in Madagascar.

Are you going to live in a mud hut"
I can't really answer this question. From what I know, it probably won't be mud, but it will be a hut, most likely without running water or electricity. After our 3 months of in-service training we will be placed at our site, which could be anywhere in Madagascar. The housing situation varies from site to site, and you really don't know until you get there.

What are you most scared of?
I usually tell people about these parasites that lay eggs in your feet and grow and the disgusting process that is required to remove them. Those are scary! But I also worry that I will want to come home early. The thought of quitting is more scary than parasites growing in my feet...

I love when people ask me about my upcoming adventure, especially if they have questions that I have no idea what the answer is. Which is more frequent than you may think. And reassuring. ha Although my mom did ask me today if I "am sure that I want to do this? Positive?" And my answer, without one second's hesitation, was yes. I'm ready to make my mark on the world, however big or small it may be...